Travelers roaming through the northeastern Wyoming prairie will be treated to a strange and wonderful sight: a striking stone column rising seemingly out of nowhere. It’s Devils Tower, a 867-foot pillar beckoning everyone from Native Americans to geology buffs to rock climbers to come closer, drink in the sights and sounds, and learn more about the remarkable cultural and natural history surrounding the monument.
Geology of Devils Tower
How did such an unusual rock tower get here? Scientists aren’t entirely sure. Geologists do know that an intrusion—or the forcible movement of magma into or between other types of rock—of igneous rock formed the tower. As the magma cooled, it contracted to create a series of hexagon-shaped columns made of a rock called phonolite porphyry, which give the tower its textured, striped look. Some think the magma that formed Devils Tower intruded all the way to the surface, while others think erosion wore away the softer sedimentary rock to eventually expose the tower. Other scientists even think the tower comes from an extinct volcano, though there’s no other evidence of volcanic activity in the area. Natural forces continue to shape Devils Tower as wind and water keep eroding the pillar—it’s rare, but sometimes entire columns break away and fall to the ground around the tower.
History and Culture
More than a dozen Native American groups, including the Lakota, Cheyenne, Kiowa, Crow, Arapahoe and Shoshone, consider the tower to be a sacred spot. The significance varies from culture to culture, but it’s a place used for many spiritual practices and ceremonies. Many see the monument’s name as disrespectful and have petitioned for a change. Common Indigenous names for the tower are “Bear’s Tipi” and “Bear Lodge.”
In 1893, local ranchers notched the first ascent of Devils Tower using a wooden ladder. The ladder remained in place for other climbers until 1927; in 1937, a group of New York climbers were the first to use technical rock-climbing techniques to reach the summit. And in 1941, George Hopkins became the first person to reach the top without climbing the tower—instead, he parachuted onto it. Unfortunately, Hopkins couldn’t get down without help and spent six days stranded on top until his rescue.
And for some, Devils Tower’s defining cultural moment (for Hollywood, anyway) came in 1977, when it made a starring appearance in Steven Spielberg’s Close Encounters of the Third Kind.
What to do at Devils Tower? Plenty
Hiking: When you visit the monument, you can hike eight miles of trails that wind around the base of the tower through forests, meadows and even prairie dog towns. Along the way, you might spot colorful prayer bundles or cloth tied to trees. These are ceremonial objects and should not be touched, disturbed or photographed out of respect for Indigenous cultural practices. A must-see site: the Circle of Sacred Smoke sculpture, a piece of art honoring Native American groups (accessible by trail or road). In winter, the trails offer quiet adventure for cross-country skiers.
Camping: Grab one of the 50 first-come, first-served sites at the Belle Fourche Campground for a night under the stars. Sites cost $20 per night.
Climbing: Hexagonal geologic formations make the tower renowned for crack climbing, and climbers flock to the park from all over to try its long and challenging routes (rated from 5.7 to 5.13).
While climbing is allowed on the tower, be aware that many Native Americans consider climbing this sacred spot disrespectful. There is a voluntary closure during the month of June where climbers are encouraged not to scale the tower’s routes out of respect for ceremonies and cultural practices. Note that closures may occur at other times of the year for nesting falcons as well.
Ranger programs: The park operates free guided activities in summer and fall. Hike the 1.3-mile trail around the tower daily while learning about the area’s geology and cultural history; drop in on a 20-minute ranger talk (topics vary); or enjoy an evening program at the park amphitheater. Check the visitor center for topics and times.
Getting There
Devils Tower National Monument is in northeastern Wyoming, along the Belle Fourche River and off of Wyoming Highway 24. The closest gateway town is Hulett, Wyoming (13 miles away); other nearby towns include Sundance, WY (30 miles), Moorcroft, WY (35 miles), Gillette, WY (63 miles) and Spearfish, SD (63 miles).
For more information:
Devils Tower National Monument
307-467-5283 x635
Devils Tower, WY 82714
www.nps.gov/deto/